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Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

what is the best mode to use for everyday picture-taking?

January 23rd, 2013 7 comments

like is it portrait, sports, party, high sensitivity etc?

Each of these different picture modes changes the settings of the camera so that they perform best under those conditions. For example, ‘sports’ mode will try to use a faster shutter speed to freeze fast action, but each one is also a compromise so ‘high sensitivity’ will allow you to take pictures in low light without flash, but may result in lwer quality ‘grainy’ pictures. As you learn about photography – these are the things that you start to understand – each shot is a compromise between shutter speed (freezing motion) aperture (contol of depth of field) and sensitivity (quality of image).

If you are in a hurry and can’t figure out which is best, then put the camera onto full auto – most of them will take a reasonable picture, but if you have the time it is work trying to learn about the different modes.

http://www.pixcellence.co.uk

What is a good lense for 1) Outdoor Sports Photograph and 2) Low Light Indoor Photography?

January 13th, 2013 2 comments

I have the Canon Rebel T1i, and I’m looking to take better pictures of outdoor sports as well as indoor events. I currently have the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/1.4-5.6 IS, Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, as well as a Canon EF 50mm f/1-1.8. Would a Speedlight be beneficial? Or more cost efficient?

It sounds like you have the lenses that should do the job. There are of course better faster lenses but they cost a ton of money. What I think you need to do is learn how to use your camera better. A good class in photography and some practice will improve your pictures.

The 55-250mm should do a fine job with outdoor sports during the day. You will have trouble with it indoors or at night because of the small aperture. The 50mm F1.8 should do a good job with indoor sports if you are reasonably close.

A flash is not recommended though. It would be completely useless with outdoor sports as the action would be too far away for the the flash to be effective. Indoors it would work if you were within about 30ft. but do you really want to be sending a bright flash in the athletes eyes over and over again. I think they might have a problem with that.

If you really want to upgrade lenses be prepared to lay out some serious cash. The 70-200mm F2.8 IS lens is nearly $2,000. A 50mm F1.2 is also nearly $2,000 and a 24-70mm F2.8 or 18-55mm F2.8 are over $1,000.

What is the better lens setup for my D80?

January 7th, 2013 3 comments

I am just getting into photography and I have decided to buy a Nikon d80. I will be focusing on most types of photography including sports/action, landscapes and general portraits as well as a little macro.

I am having trouble deciding on the best and most value for money lens setup.

I have been looking at the Nikon 18-200mm VR lens which would be and all round lens that I would probably use solely.

Or would it be better to buy two different lenses: the 70-300 VR and another lens for short distances eg a 18-55 or 18-135.

I am unsure which setup would be more effective and give me the most value for money.

Are the zoom lenses quick enough for sports shots?

My budget would probably lie somewhere between $500-1000 usd.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

As a first time user your best bet is the 18mm-200mm lens. That gets you the 35mm equivilent of a 27mm wide angle lens and a 300 mm telephoto lens and of course everything in between. The long end is ideal for sports the short end for landscapes.

Nikon has an 18-70 and the 70-300 you mention. This is also a good combination and gets you again that wide angle on the short side and a whopping 450mm zoom. The longer zoom of course is ideal for sports photographjy.

However, if you go with this combination you’re looking at carrying two lenses and changing lenses all the time as you switch subjects. Back in my film days I did that all the time and I never thought about it. But then in those days changnig lenses was not an issue.

Today it’s different. Every time you remove a lens you potentially expose your sensor to dust necessitating eventually to have the sensor cleaned. So constantly changing lenses is no longer a trivial thing to do. Instead it’s become a potential risk.

I got around this with my Nikon SLR by having a single lens that covers 90% of my needs and that happens to be the 18-200. I travel with that one and I do most of my images with it too. I don’t do sports but I do shoot wildlife so I later got a longer telephoto for that. I do a lot of macro so I have the 105mm macro as well. Those two lenses usually stay home when I’m travelling overseas so that saves me weight.

Back at home I either do wildlife or macro or general stuff. So at the start of a shoot I’ll put on the lens in a place where there’s no wind or dust like in the house or in the car and I’ll use that lens all day. This minimizes getting dust into the camera.

Anyway, since you’re on a limited budget my suggestion is the 18-200. Later as you get a little better off you can always add a 200-400 for those really distant shots but in the meantime at least you have something that covers most of what you need. In fact with that lens you can take a picture of the stadium and an individual player without ever changing lenses.

One other tip … Tamron has an 18-250 lens for a Nikon and it’s cheaper than the Nikon 18-200 version. But there’s a catch too, it doesn’t have an image stabilizor. So if you don’t mind that catch you can save yourself some money. I personally don’t like Tamron lenses, I feel Nikon ones produce better images, but I’ve known many people who insist that there is no difference. So this is an option for you too.

And to answer your other question, are zoom lenses quick enough for sports shots – yes and no. Yes they are in terms of set up and physical use. You can zoom them incredibly fast to get to your subject and the autofocus is incredibly quick too though the 70-300 could be a bit quicker in my opinion.

At the same time zoom lenses have a smaller minimum aperture, usually around f3.5 or smaller. If you typically work in poor lighting conditions or routinely work with very high shutter speeds, this may not be fast enough for you. It may be desirable to get a dedicated single focal length telephoto in that case that’s f2.8 or faster. But if you do that first of all it will cost you twice what you paid for the camera and it will be very heavy requiring a tripod to use. Fast lenses come at a hell of a price. And of course you’re back to changing lenses a lot.

For my money I prefer my 18-200. It may not be the fastest but it’s certainly captured a lot of images for me, each of them outstanding and it saves me constantly changing lenses for general photography.

I hope this helps a little.

Aspiring fashion/sport/glamour photographer, where do I start?

January 3rd, 2013 2 comments

My dream job would be photographing for a boarding (snow and skate) magazine taking photos for the clothing lines and the boarders in action. I live in BC Canada, where should I start? I’ve been doing photography for over 5 years and consider myself good at what I do and really wish to persue it as a career.

http://www.brooks.edu/

Aspiring fashion/sport/glamour photographer, where should I start?

January 1st, 2013 3 comments

My dream job would be photographing for a boarding (snow and skate) magazine taking photos for the clothing lines and the boarders in action. I live in BC Canada, where should I start? I’ve been doing photography for over 5 years and consider myself good at what I do and really wish to persue it as a career.

Have you tried an internship yet?

How can I get big companies to see my photography?

November 14th, 2012 1 comment

I am an Action Sports photographer who is looking for backing, product trade, or $ from, energy drinks, clothing reps/companies, shoe companies etc…. I shoot with the best action sports athletes around, I am trying to get them out in the industry as well. Does anyone know the best way to get backing from major companies in the industries you do work?

You have to go to them, they are not coming to you – at least not at this stage. So ride up some elevators and knock on some doors.

Any tips for using a new Nikon N55 camera?

November 9th, 2012 1 comment

I just got a new Nikon this past weekend, and I’m new to photography. I just want a few helpful tips for using this camera.
Also, I’m familiar with the portrait setting and most of the others, but when taking action or sports photos how should i adjust the settings?
Any help would be nice, thanks.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/n55.htm

http://www.nikon-image.com/eng/news_release/2002/f55.htm

http://www.shutterbug.net/equipmentreviews/35mm_cameras/0802sb_nikon/

Enjoy

How do I become a photographer for an extreme sport magazine?

November 9th, 2012 3 comments

I’m an 18 year old girl about to graduate high school. I’ve always loved photography, and editing photos. It really is my passion. All my life I’ve been riding dirt bikes, bikes, skateboards, jet skis, and extreme sports. My dream job would to be a photographer for a dirt biking magazine or some sort of extreme sport!

But I was just curious how I would manage to land myself a job in that industry! Any tips or ideas?!

They will only buy shots that you own the copyright to, meaning you have to attend the events yourself and take the pictures, and then submit them to the company and ask if they want to buy them from you.

Once you have enough credibility in your career, you can apply to become a staff photographer, which usually means they pay to send you to events and take photos. At this point, you do not own the copyrights to your photos any more, the company you work for does, becuase you are taking pictures in the course of your employment.

If you stay an independent photographer, and people like your stuff enough, you can start demanding what people will pay for your photos. But that can take decades, and very few photogs reach that point.

How can I take Action/Sport photos with my Samsung Epic 4G?

November 7th, 2012 2 comments

I’ve tried setting to Action/Sport, but the pics still come out blurry.

You can’t. The Samsung Epic 4G is a phone with a $10 camera thrown in for fun.

The built-in camera is pretty decent for what it is (reviews: http://www.engadget.com/2010/08/16/epic-4g-review/ , http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2367811,00.asp ) but it doesn’t compare to a $200 point & shoot camera, never mind a dSLR. That’s what you’d preferably use for action/ sports, or any other kind of photography where performance matters.

Not to be a wise-ass, but there’s a reason that pro sports photographers use $5000 cameras ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/655574-REG/Nikon_25466_D3S_Digital_SLR_Camera.html ) with $9000 lenses ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/520639-USA/Nikon_2171_AF_S_Nikkor_400mm_f_2_8G.html ).

How would you ‘Stop’ the action during a sports match?

August 6th, 2012 6 comments

okay this is for photography again, I want to take a picture of some local footballers, but they come out blurry, and when I sue flash they come out too bright. So how can I stop them in their place without any flashing or blurring.

Help me pleasee <3
Yes I am using an SLR, and Thankyouu (:

You don’t need flash you just need a fast shutter speed. Set your camera to shutter priority so the camera will sort the aperture out.

Start at 1/250 and see how that works, if not, go faster