Express Action Sports

I want to get a decent camera for sports photography so I need to zoom in and get a decent not blurred shot. What sort of gear do I need?

There’s gear and then there’s features. So, what I’ve done is list the gear, and under each item, I’ve listed the features to look for, as well as an example.

1) A single lens reflex camera (either digital or film):
–for digital SLR, it should have low noise at high ISO settings (i.e., in low light the camera can be set to have low-noise images)
–for film SLR, use high ISO film
–make sure the SLR has the ability to control the aperture and shutter speed; some older film SLRs do not offer manual controls at all.
–ideally, a quick response time, so when you push the release, it takes the photo.
–a fast frame rate (fps or frames per second) of 5 fps or faster.
EXAMPLE: Nikon D2H, Nikon D300, Nikon D3, Canon 1D mark II.

2) A telephoto lens with a wide aperture (such as f/2.8).
–ideally, should have a built-in focusing motor for speed (such as Nikon’s AF-S motor)
–ideally, with image stabilization
–at a minimum 200mm up to 600mm
–zooms can offer some versatility
–lens should have tripod mount or tripod foot on it.
Examples: fixed focal length lens 400mm f/2.8; zoom lens 200-400mm f/4

3) A strong monopod

What you would do: set the camera to the highest ISO you can tolerate for noise or set it to auto ISO. This allows the camera to expose with the fastest shutter speeds to stop action. Typically, you’d have the camera in manual exposure mode, selecting a fast shutter speed like 1/500 or 1/1000 to freeze action, and a wide aperture to let in light and blur distracting backgrounds. The lens should have a foot on it to support its weight, mounted on a monopod. Do not attach the monopod to the camera, because the weight is all in the lens and this will stress or warp your mount.

Best value, digitally: a used Nikon D2H. This is a pro-level camera that sells for about $400 used, without lens. It’s 4.1 megapixels, which is enough to make 8 x 10 images with no problem. A lens will cost you a lot more, actually. A decent enough lens on a budget is still expensive. At the least expensive end, you’d be looking at a 70-300mm AF-S VR lens ($459) and that’s only if you’d be shooting in decent light.

For film, a used film SLR (like a Nikon N80, about $100) loaded with ISO 800 or 1600 film would be a very inexpensive choice, but you’d still have to buy a good long telephoto lens.

If all this is out of your price range, then look for a SLR-like point and shoot with as big an optical zoom as you can afford (you may see this as 12, 15x, or even 18x). Set the ISO high, at least 400 and higher if you can stand the additional image noise. Use a monopod or tripod (if they’ll allow you to have a tripod). Because the camera is slow in responding compared to an SLR, you’ll have to anticipate the action.

Hope this explains things to you clearly and in an easy way.

Would you recommend the D700? If not what would you recommend for action shots ( especially sport shots)
I appreciate any answers.

In the Nikon world, the Nikon D3 is the best camera for action shots, closely followed by the Nikon D700, which uses the same sensor as the D3, but has a slightly slower frames per second rate of 5 frames per second (fps).

However, if you add the optional grip (at additional cost), you can increase the frame rate to 8 fps.

An SLR is definitely the way to go, because of better autofocusing systems and lower image noise, as well as virtually no shutter delays. Avoid bridge cameras/point and shoots, as they use slower contrast-based focusing and their sensors are much more noisy, particularly at higher ISOs.

The D700 is one of the best cameras for action and low-light shooting. Other options include the Nikon D300, which would be better if you need the telephoto effect of the smaller sensor, which narrows the field of view. This is good, because it makes your telephoto lenses more effective. On the Canon side, the 1D mark III is their pro sports SLR, but the mark III series of pro Canon SLRs has had well-known issues with the autofocusing system. To a large extent, these issues have been resolved, but be aware that this is an issue with the latest Canon pro SLRs.

If you’re sticking with Nikon, then look at either the D700 or D300.

A few of my clients want me to document their children DURING THE GAME. I am a natural light portrait photographer but would love to dip my toes in to sports action photography. On a small budget, I bought a Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED DX VR (with a weeks worth of practice with it) and set off to a game. The daylight shots of the action were great! But at dusk then night fall, I struggled! All my shoots were noisy, blurry and the white balance (no matter what settings I put it on) were horrible!

So the Q’s are:
What settings do I need to use?
ISO?
Shutter speed?
White Balance?
Do I need a speed light or will the stadium lights be fine?
Any other tips can anyone enlighten me with is greatly appreciated!

PS:
I shot in aperture priority and never use a flash. All these games are outdoors and scheduled from 2 hours before dusk and end about 1 hour after dusk.
PSS:
I shot RAW and I don’t use this lens for my portraits. I mainly use my Nikkor 50mm 1.4D for that! Thanks guys for the advice! Any other takers?
🙂

sorry to be the one to say it but you will struggle to get high quality shots with the 55-200mm 5.6 lens and would also think that natural light portraits will be a struggle too with that slow lens. ALL of the pros at the game will be using a minimum of a f4 lens but most will have a 2.8 or faster lens with about 400mm or longer. They will most likely be shooting a Nikon D3 with the ISO cranked to around 1600 or more. This is not a blight on your skill level because as you say, the daytime shots were great. You are going to have to drop about $6000 on a lens unfortunately but before that, try to hire a pro lens and try before you buy.

All the best.

This is a really favourable technique that ive seen and as taking an interest in filming and capturing different sports in action I have not found any website or programmes that use this affect. I currently have photoshop, the image photography technique looks like this example…http://www.luminousether.com/mockholly/images/commentary/parkour-1.jpg

I’m sure I’ve seen this before.

This is done three ways:

1) The Old fashioned way with a piece of film, multiple exposures and fast continuous drive. Use a modern professional film camera such as a Nikon F5 or Canon 1V (or even Canon New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive capable 14 frames a second, which I believe is unsurpassed even today), a slow-ish film, probably ISO100 or so, and set multiple exposures of 6 or 7. Use a tripod and Click away as he jumps.

2) The stroboscopic way, this is the best way to do it at nighttime. Use a the stroboscopic mode of a flash like a Canon 580EX, and a long exposure at a slow (0.5-1 second) on tripod. Use a cable release, and click the shutter as he is about to launch. The stroboscopic will fire off rapidly in quick succession. Example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonperks/475154751/ (not one of mine)

3) The photoshop way. You’ll also need a high speed camera, at least a Canon 40D, capable of 6.5 fps (Canon 1D/1D2 is 8.5fps and 1D3/4 is 10, Nikon D3/3s is 9, Canon 7D is 8, and D300s is 8), likewise as he approaches fire off burst on tripod. Combine in photoshop using layers and transparency.

I want to get a new mega zoom camera
such as the Pentax X70 or Lumix FZ28k

Both cameras have 20x mega zoom lenses and claim to have fast shutter release times and advanced action and sports features. However, I read one review that said the Pentax ($300) is too slow for shooting sports.

But the Lumix costs ($400) … more than the pentax.

Any suggestions on which camera would be a good choice? Please recommend other brands if you have a mega zoom camera that you use for action and sports photography.

Thanks!!
What is the BEST choice for a non-removeable lens camera. For Air shows and football. I want to replace my ancient Olympus c-2100. I shoot all types of photos
but the most, most, MOST important venue is sports.

1. I am an air show enthusiast and want a camera with a very fast shutter release time and special high speed still photo features.
Is this camera a good choice for shooting high speed objects traveling through the air (jets)? and is it good for shooting sports such as football?

2. I also like to shoot still life and want vibrant natural color. does it deliver?

3. What about low lighting conditions for still photos? Does it do well?

What about shooting outdoor landscapes? does it deliver?

Zooming and taking pictures of the moon? yes or no?
Does it charge on the USB connector?
I prefer AA batteries over ‘power pack’.
Correction to your terms:

"Shutter release" time or "lag" is the same thing. It is the time measured from when the button is pressed to when the shutter actually opens.

Whereas "Exposure time" is the length of time the shutter remains opens during the process of recording a photo. ie. 1/60th, 1/250th, 1/1000th etc.

To answer your first question:

The Nikon D3 or D300, no question.

Lenses?

Court games, the 24-70 mm f/2.8, 70-200 mm f/2.8 and 200-400 mm f/4
Field sports, the 70-200 mm f/2.8, 200-400 mm, 400 mm f/2.8 and 600 mm f/4

As far as your secondary question goes:

Point and shoot cameras will let you down … the reason? Shutter lag. With sports and action, it is important for the cameras shutter to release as soon as you press the release. Even the lowly Nikon D40 with a budget 55-200 mm lens will out perform any P&S camera and for less than $600 with two lenses. For sports and action, it may be that you want to up your budget and get the camera you really want and need.

There is no reason to spend your money twice, once on a compromise camera and second on the camera you need. Be patient and save your pennies

NOTE: "fast shutter release times" means how long the shutter stays open to expose the sensor. 1/4000th of a second is a fast shutter release time and most DLSR’s shoot at least that fast. Fast shutter lag times is different. From the time you press the shutter release until the shutter actuates, is the lag time. P&S cameras shutter lag can be from 0.8 seconds to over 3 seconds depending upon the circumstances. DSLR camera shutter lag time are measured in milliseconds, thus you get nearly instantaneous shutter response.

Of the two listed cameras, the Pentax has the strongest specs. Neither uses AA batteries, but the superior Li-ion batteries. To shoot the moon, the "624 mm" will fill the frame the most.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=pentax_x70,panasonic_dmcfz28&show=all

I see how you would interpret shutter release times to mean that. In the old days of mechanical leaf shutters, the times it took for them to fully open and close were sometimes called "release times" especially by those that calibrated them every year for those who used them.