Express Action Sports

I’m intrested in photography and I am just wondering what camera you would recommend for a beginner? 10mp + please and the less the better.
I am aware of megapixels and I would like more than ten because my compact camera is 10.2 and if I’m getting a new camera for more money, I want it to be better than my current for a lot of reasons.

If you are really on a budget and want the best quality for the money, check out the P&S Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ28 [with a Leica lense] which has more features than most pro DSLRs that require auxiliary lenses not even equal to the single initial full-range lense that comes with the FZ28. It is reviewed at:

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2008_reviews/panasonic_fz28_pg5.html

It just came out on November 4, 2008.

It’s an all-in-one 10.1 megapixel digital camera which includes (i) built-in image stabilization; (ii) HD720 quality video [Quicktime] which permits zooming while videoing skateboarding, Action Sports; (iii) a 18x zoom [27 – 486 mm (35mm equiv.)] "Leica" lense for nature and concert photography; (iv) up to 0.39 inch macro option; (v) up to 6400 ASA; (vi) takes up to 380 pictures per 120 min. battery charge; (vii) has a "burst speed" of 13 fps; and sells new for $430 at amazon.com. in the U.S.

Here’s an actual handheld picture of the moon:

http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/ciu/bf/1b/a83ac060ada0881604bad110.L.jpg

Good luck!

I mostly use my 70-300mm Lens to take youth sports action shots. Would I see much of a difference if I upgraded to the 70 – 300mm IS Lens? My Canon only has 8.00 mega pixels. I hear wonderful things about the Image Stabilizer.

That wouldn’t be much of an upgrade at all.

Your 8 megapixels are plenty enough, they are not the problem.

Your problem is a lens with the biggest possible aperture of f/4, which gets even worse as you use the zoom.
The IS isn’t going to improve that any at all.

You’d be better off with with an f2.8 lens, even if it was the shorter 70-200mm one. If you bought the L lens, you’d have the speed you need, plus the quality to allow you to zoom in.
Add a 1.4x converter, and you’d still have f4.0 all the way through the zoom, plus a 360mm equivalent lens.