Action Photography
Of all the kinds and styles of photography being practiced today, sports photography is probably the most exciting—not to mention the most difficult—of all. Since this kind of photography involves so much speed and action, photographing the subjects or players would require more than the usual knack for good angles but also the strength to endure physical limitations during the shoot.
Sports photography usually include shots that are taken during the game or while the subjects are in their respective field. Aiming to “freeze” moments during the actual event, sports photographers should be equipped with the right photography equipment, trained with enduring tenacity, and fueled with an overwhelming desire to capture each moment and emotion at their best.
PHOTOGRAPHING DIFFERENT KINDS OF SPORTS
The best thing about sports photography is that the photographer can freeze a single moment that contains pure and raw emotion and share it with the public in print. If you’re into photography and quite interested in taking adrenaline-pumping shots, you should familiarize yourself with different kinds of sports first. Since each sport varies, the styles and techniques used in capturing and freezing each moment also vary.
If you are already in the field taking photos, it is a must that you have a brief background about the sport you are covering. Knowledge in the fundamentals of coaching style, sport rules, and players will help you identify their most interesting angles. It is also a must to identify your “safety” (a shot that is easy to shoot and can be published if you don’t get good photos all throughout).
Here are some basic sports photography guidelines fit for common sports:
1. Baseball. Most seasoned sports photographers would agree that baseball is one sport that is hardest to shoot because of its unpredictability. Make sure that you get your safety first before getting experimental shots.
2. Basketball. Unlike baseball, this is the easiest sport to shoot because you only have to focus on two subjects: the player who handles the ball and the net. But its simplicity limits you to different angles, so make sure you get plenty of shots to choose from.
3. Football. This is another easy sport to shoot but it is considered as the most equipment intense sports because it would require waiting for the perfect shot. Although it’s easy to get safeties, it’s still up to you to produce action shots that would be a stand up.
4. Soccer and Hockey. Because of the speed and sudden movements involved in these sports, auto focus cameras are recommended.
5. Volleyball. Although it is one of the rarely covered sports events, volleyball is also one of favorites because dramatic shots can be derived all throughout. Since moves in the sports are quite tricky, make sure that you turn your camera’s auto focus on.
6. Golf. It’s hard to shoot photos during the game due to the nature of the game itself. What you can do is to camp at one location and take shots as players pass by or use a cart to follow the individual players.
7. Track and Field. Though access can be limited, this is one sport that is fun to shoot because movements are predictable and easy to shoot. All you need is good timing.
8. Gymnastics and Figure Skating. One basic rule in these sports: NO FLASH. Since they involve individuals performing, the use of flash is restricted because it distracts the players. The major problem you’ll encounter is lighting but this can be solved once the venue is lit up.
9. Motorsports and Racing Events. These are fairly easy to photograph because you can get away with slower lenses. But since you’re far from the track, you need longer lenses for the shoot.
Low Jeremy
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Action Photography?
One thing is I just hate how I have to use flash. I don’t like the fact red eyes appear because of the flash. Another thing I don’t like is the shadows that the built in flash causes. I need an efficient way of freezing the action with out getting so much blurring when my flash is off. See the guys in a band I photograph just move a lot and its not easy freezing the action unless I have a fast shutter speed and flash or use an annoying tripod when I go without flash. Then another thing I have to battle is risking the subjects coming out too bright when I use flash which annoys me. But hey I’m learning on my own which is harder then if I had a teacher. It just bothers me when I am not getting 100% of what I want. There’s a lot that goes into all this and when the subjects are at random positions and moving its even together. Its not like a studio were your in a controlled environment. Band photography is unpredictable. Soon enough I will become 100% at it. I just hound myself about it.
OK, so do you have a question in all that?
Don’t use flash. Don’t use autofocus. Its going to make all your pictures look horrible. Professionals use tripods so you should too. You need a fast camera with a high ISO setting, like 800 at least. And you need a fast lens and you should be aiming at f2.8. Then take lots of pictures and some of them will turn out OK. If half of them are blurry don’t worry.
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One way to stop the red eye and Shadow behind your subject is to use a flash bracket. That puts your flash 6 to 9 inches above your camera. that is what wedding photographers use to stop that . As far as tripod. Don’t use a tripod try a mono pod. A single leg pod that stables your camera. most sport photographers use them when using long lenses. You need to learn the techniques of shooting. you can use a preset focus on a spot you know action will happen and wait . Like second base of baseball. Or the ream at a basketball game. You need to read about that stuff and learn them they will help.
just understand even a pro will never take the great shoot all the time. But they get it right much more than most people. Keep the love up and read and learn and keep practicing. It takes 1000 of picture to learn what you need to know.
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13 yrs phographer
Don’t use a flash, set your aperature to be the most open (smallest number) so your shutter speed can be faster. You may only be able to get up to a certain shutter speed based on how much light you have, it may not be fast enough to stop the action. In that case, use a faster film speed (which is more sensitive to light, like 800 which can be found at any store that sells film, or higher, which can only be found at specialty places.) If you have a digital camera you can set its "film speed."
Also, try looking for a different angle where your subject is better lit by the lights in the room. Come closer to your subject so the dark surroundings (other people in the audience of the band, perhaps, or trees outside, can be anything) aren’t in the picture, making it darker.
If all else fails, get a better camera, or beg your friends for one for your birthday. 🙂
References :
Shooting from back in crowd: Nikon D80, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 HSM, aperture priority mode, f2.8, ISO AUTO.
Shooting from up front: substitute Sigma’s 50-150 f2.8 or Nikon’s 85 f1.8 or even 50 f1.8.
Hey, go for Sigma’s 10-20 for some very interesting shots, but watch out for slow shutter speeds.
If flash is permitted or desired, slap on an SB-600 — lights up Carnegie Hall.
Canon makes similar gear.
Hope this helps.
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